When a cellar is more than a cellar

As featured in Wine Spectator, attorney Patrick Mincey has had the opportunity to not only realize his dream, but also impart his own creativity into the cellar he designed and built himself.

For years I have been fawning over the amazing wine cellars of the world.  I still have sketch pads filled with designs of cellars I have contemplated right out of college.  My inspiration has come from many places, from Wine Spectator’s monthly showcased cellar, to the different restaurants that I’ve visited with outrageously lavish displays; the allure of having a cellar of distinction intoxicates wine lovers everywhere.

From subterranean caves to converted farm silos, a wine cellar is a way to truly express yourself and enhance the status of your abode.  Obviously these projects are not cheap to finance and are even more expensive to stock, however it is not necessarily about the status or contents of the cellar that make this endeavor worthwhile.  Most often, the reward is the realization of a life’s dream. 

The reality is that the recent economic situation has put a hold on many people’s dreams; however I encourage you to continue to dream big.  No external element can take that away as long as you want it bad enough, so don’t compromise.  Imagine what it will be like to finally have your cellar, or your house with a big yard, or to go on that African Safari, or whatever you may hold as your dream.  Think about that dream, break it down and focus on whatever needs to be done to get you to the point that you can realize it.  Once you figure that out, then do it!  

I hope that one day we have a chance to speak about the time you realized your dreams, hopefully over a glass of wine from mine.  Cheers!

Counterfeit Wine and Misinformation: Two wrongs don’t make a right

Bill Koch seen holding the bottle of 1921 Château Pétrus that is at the heart of his claim against Eric Greenberg. Thus far the World's media outlets have unfairly led with his side of the story, although it is a fascinating one.

Just last week (or if you scroll down, just last article) I wrote about the one-sided story that has been the driving force behind the “crusade” against counterfeit wine.  The complaints filed by Bill Koch against the likes of Christie’s auction house, Acker Merrall & Condit, Zachys, Michael Broadbent and Eric Greenberg have been the infallible basis for most people’s opinions regarding this issue (to a certain extent they were the basis for mine as well, although with questions).  There’s no question that there is a problem with counterfeit wines in the marketplace (that is indisputable), however there is another problem being faced in the same arena.  The problem is being presented only one side of the story.  This leads to a lot of misinformation that’s put out to the general public.  In turn, the public then takes this information, seeing as it comes from supposedly reliable sources, and absorbs it as truth (even if this is not the intended outcome).

I felt compelled to write this piece today, not over something I read in a book or magazine, but rather because of a daily tear-off calendar that adorns the desks of thousands of wine lovers across the country.  The What Do You Know About Wine daily calendar adorns my kitchen counter and I typically enjoy the little tidbits it provides.  That was until I read the October 22 question and answer.

Q: An esteemed wine writer and connoisseur assigned a magnum of 1921 Pétrus 100 points in 1995, the highest rating possible, pronouncing it “out of this universe.” Why is this significant?

A: According to the people at Château Pétrus, they didn’t make a magnum bottle in 1921, meaning that the bottle was a fake.  When asked about the gaffe by The New Yorker magazine, Robert Parker implied that even wine critics make mistakes but insisted that particular bottle of wine was still “wonderful.”

I’m not too worried about Parker’s role in this quote, as he obviously hast a stellar reputation and has gotten to enjoy some awesome juice!  My particular issue with this entry is that it possibly conveys a half-truth.  The sad reality of the high-end wine market is that it does contain fraudulent bottles of some truly masterful wines.  However, just because a historically significant bottle surfaces does not mean that it’s fake, even if the chateau says it did not use that bottle format at the time (a magnum = two bottles of wine or 1.5L).

The example in the calendar (represented above) uses 1921 Pétrus as an example.  This is one of those elusive bottles that gets high-end wine collectors all hot and bothered.   This particular vintage of Pétrus is also at the heart of Koch’s claim against Greenberg.  On the one hand, you have Koch’s team saying that they’ve consulted with the chateau, saying they didn’t produce magnums during that vintage.  Which is possible, if not probable; however what if the records kept weren’t accurate?  It’s not a huge stretch considering the fact that technology was limited and most chateau owners/winemakers were not the savvy businessmen of today’s chateau ownership.  Also, let us not forget that since this controversial bottle was made, there was a rather significant war and a tremendous amout of disorganization in France, as it was occupied twice in the span of 25 years. There is also the possibility that someone else bottled the ’21 Pétrus in magnums.

You may be asking, if Château Pétrus didn’t bottle the wine, then who could’ve?  The answer – a lot of people!  Up until the mid to late 1920s, Bordeaux’s chateaux didn’t bottle a lot of their own wine.  Much of the wine at that time was actually bottled by négociants who would typically buy the wine in bulk and then bottle it at a later time for sale.  This practice led to many inconsistencies in packaging and quality.  Thus, it is not a stretch for there to be bottles out there that are unaccounted for by the different chateau.  In fact, Château Pétrus owner, Christian Moueix is quoted as saying “I believe it is perfectly possible that there were magnums from Château Pétrus in those years (referring to ’34, ’29, ’28, ’24 and ’21).”  This is the according to the claim put forth by Eric Greenberg and his counsel against William Edgerton, Koch’s wine authentication expert.

Beyond this, there’s also the fact that many wines/bottles are reconditioned over the years (the act of replacing deteriorating corks and foil capsules) by either the chateau or négociants.  This makes visually authenticating a wine that was reconditioned decades ago difficult.  According to Greenberg’s claim, most of Edgerton’s findings were based on visual inspection.

As I mentioned in the article from last week, I’m not here to say which of either Koch or Greenberg is telling the truth, as I have no clue.  What I’m here to do is to tell those who find this interesting and are compelled to tell others, either in print or by word of mouth, tread lightly as the facts have NOT been established.  What everyone has heard is only half the story, the Bill Koch half.  It’s not fair to the accused or implicated to be given this stigma, especially considering the likely unreliable or incomplete records kept by the chateaux and négociants at the time. 

The image above indicates new ways in which wineries are attempting to combat counterfeiting.

Regardless, there are a lot of holes in Koch’s accusations, yet there are questions that need answered by the accused as well.  When it is all said and done, there’s a silver lining for us, the consumer, as most high-end producers have been implementing numerous forms of authentication measures on their bottles (see image to the left).  In the end, as long as the problem and issue with accountability are addressed, we should all be better for it.

Now that we’ve addressed some of the issues with this single tear-away calendar entry, let’s bring it back to the disseminators of information (including myself). This calendar entry was just the tip of the iceberg, as Wine Spectator ran a whole issue largely based on Koch’s side of things.  Is this right?  Not really.  Does it sell issues and get a buzz going?  Yup!  So if that’s what they’re all about, then so be it.  However as someone who wants fair representation and for the accused to have a chance to defend themselves before we pass judgment, then I say we should demand more from our informational sources and ourselves (the amount of misinformation out there regarding not only the Koch Crusade, but wine and world news in general is disappointing).

Don’t forget, it is easy to accuse, however it’s nearly impossible to get the stigma off of you, even if found innocent in the end.

Bill Koch vs Everybody: It is time to hear the other side of things

One of Bill Koch's Jefferson Bordeaux (WS.com)

Over the course of the past decade, there has been a keen eye directed towards the problem of counterfeit wine circulating in the auction market.  The issue came into the public forum largely because of two events:

1. The release of the riveting, well-written book, The Billionaire’s Vinegar by Benjamin Wallace (which I highly recommend you read) was the first.  It recounts the dark history of the Jefferson Bottles and paints a picture of the life of the ultra-wealthy that is unabashedly lavish and irresistibly interesting.
2. The relentless (and vindictive) nature of lawsuits filed by billionaire William Koch against anyone even remotely having to do with the now infamous Jefferson Bottles.  The Jefferson Bottles are a series of bottles supposedly purchased by Thomas Jefferson during his time in France.  These bottles were mysteriously uncovered by the now infamous Hardy Rodenstock, a gentleman with the knack for uncovering rare wines.  Upon having the provenance and legitimacy of his prized bottles questioned, Koch went to work by launching a series of scathing  lawsuits, all of which seemingly have the goal of getting at one man, Hardy Rodenstock. 

It is publicly known how I feel about this issue and I have had exchanges regarding it in the past.  However there has been an increasing willingness of parties to begin to come forward to tell their side of the story.

Hopefully, over the course of the next few weeks or months, I will have the chance to speak with more and more people involved in this sad state of affairs.  It is not that the people I will be speaking with are guilty or innocent that makes it sad; however it is the fact that the rotten element has tainted an otherwise unique vestige to a pure past.

 The wine auction forum serves as a direct link for buyers and onlookers alike to have a connection with an era that can never be replicated and can hardly be imagined.  Let’s continue to hope that the crusade to eliminate counterfeits from circulation wins in the end.  With that being said, this is an industry of dignity and class, thus the pursuit of clarifying the wronged and accused should be done with honor and in a proper manner.  Up to this point, that has not been the case.

Wine Spectator's coverage of Koch's Crusade was informative, yet was based largely on one side of the story.

I hope to transmit my finding to both you, my readers, as well as to the readers of Cork’d in the not too distant future (although this may take longer to play out than I currently expect).  This dark side of wine, although a negative, has been a truly fascinating revelation.  It has shown the seething underbelly of the world of luxury that is largely impossible to comprehend.  It has also revealed a glaring lack of due diligence by some of the most respected figures and publications in the wine world. 

Hopefully, when it is all said and done, we will better understand who was wronged, what certain figure’s true motives are, and why things were conducted in this inefficient and disrespectful manner.

In the meantime, here are a few articles I have written about this, along with a link to the legal filing that is very entertaining, yet one-sided read: 

A crusade we can all embrace – Cork’d

WS.com: Christie’s is counterfeit crusader’s biggest target

Koch vs. Greenberg – Suit filed against America’s preeminent wine collector. (Keep in mind you this is purely based on Koch’s side)

Hopefully the excerpts from the Greenberg vs. Edgerton complaint will be available soon for viewing on Scribd.com.  This complaint shoots holes in the Koch case by discrediting Koch’s expert wine consultant who helped bring the claims against Eric Greenberg.

Birth Year Wines: Offer loads of intrigue and perspective

Vintage wines offer a unique perspective into quality, character and history.

Being born in 1979, I do not have many options for a birth year wine.  Outside of Napa, Champagne and Northern Rhone, it was not an overall good wine year.  Of those three, the Rhone and Napa wines are likely over-the-hill and the age-worthy Champagnes are largely priced out of my range.  So what is a wine lover to do to experience a good bottle of wine from his birth year, on his birthday?

The answer, try a bunch of wines that are over the hill, just like me.  I’m just kidding, about me being over the hill that is (maybe, as I did wake up with a sore hip).  There is a lot you can learn about a wine by enjoying it past its peak.  It is fun to contemplate: how it was stored, what it was like in its prime, the vintage it grew up in and so on.

1979 Pichon Lalande: What will it tell me about how old I am getting?

This year, I isolated a few wines I would like to try using a few different resources, I decided on a bottle of 1979 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande from the Pauillac appellation of Bordeaux, France.  I picked this wine for a one main reason: I really like their wines young.  Over the years, our paths have crossed a couple times and both times, I thought that the wines exhibited the berry, cedar/pencil shaving and tannin that is characteristic of what I have come to expect from good Pauillac.  So I though, why not give it a go as my birth-year wine experience.  A couple months back, I procured a bottle of the ’79 through WineBid.com and it is hanging out in my cellar as we speak.

Now that I have covered my wine, I would like to get back to the secondary point of writing this.  First, let me say that it is not important to go out and buy an expensive Bordeaux or Champagne to get to know aged wines.  With that being said why it is important to try aged or even over-the-hill wines? 

Experiencing aged wine is crucial in developing an appreciation for fine wine.  I am not saying this to be a snob. Rather, if you have never had a wine past its peak or with a good amount of age on it, then you may be taken aback when trying wines that have some age on them. 

While working in the restaurant industry as a sommelier, there were many times that I observed a diner’s “first time” with an aged wine.  The experience for most was an initial shock and in some cases they didn’t like the wine.  Most of the time they came around; however what if they were with a group splitting a bottle of Cheval Blanc or Joseph Phelps Insignia?  A couple sips may be all they get.  What a shame it would be if they left that experience without enjoying the juice, just because they did not understand what to expect with aged wine?

This lack of understanding stems from the fact that most consumers enjoy wines when wines are young and expect wines to taste and smell a certain way.  There is absolutely nothing wrong with this, if you find that young wines are what you prefer.  At these adolescent stages of their development wines are typically fruit driven.  What I mean by this is that you smell and taste more citrus, tree fruit (i.e. – apples, pears, etc) and stone fruit (i.e. – apricots, peaches, etc) in whites and red, blue and black fruit (berries) in reds. 

With aged wines, oxygen has gotten to the wine (through the porous cork) and has changed the chemical composition of the wine.  The result of this slow oxidation is more restrained fruit and the enhancing of the secondary earth and nature driven tones.  Also, some alcohol has evaporated and the tannin structure has mellowed out (primarily is reds).

With this in mind I encourage you to try aged wine as often as possible, or at least once a year, even if it is only on your birthday.  It is a fun opportunity and gives you a good amount or perspective.  By making yourself aware of the differences, you will be able to better appreciate something truly remarkable if it comes around, especially if it has some age on it!

Why poor vintages should spark your interest…

There are many elements that go into the creation of wine.  The location of the vineyard site, the microclimate of that site, the soil in which the rootstock is planted, the varietal of the vine, the weather conditions, and finally the winemaker’s influence on the juice are all essential elements.  Each one of them play a profound role in the final product, yet each rely upon each other.  Much like a quarterback relies on his o-line to block and the receiver relies on the quarterback to get him the ball, if on falters, they all lose.

So what is a winery to do to prevent failure?  Once all of the research and investment has gone into a vineyard and winery, the property typically has pretty much done all it can do.  The owners has hired researchers and oenologists to sort out the site and tell if the soil is capable of producing world class wines and if so, which types of grapes are best suited for that location.  They have interviewed and scouted for talented winemakers and vineyard managers to come in and handle the operations.  You get the picture; they have done their due diligence.

That leaves one element left, the one in which no one has control over, weather.  Year over year, weather is the most significant factor that goes into the winemaking process.  Never are two years exactly the same and quite frequently they are polar opposites.  Abnormal cold, extreme heat, hail, rain, frost and dense fog are only some of the conditions that Mother Nature doles out to vineyards.  It is because of these conditions that knowing the characteristics of a given vintage is so important.

To illustrate the importance of recognizing vintage variation one must look no further than Bordeaux.  Of all of the world’s wine regions, Bordeaux is the gold standard for which all other regions are judged.  Bordeaux is also the place where vintage variation is analyzed more than any other, so what better place to use as an example.

In classic years or plainly put, when all of the above elements are in perfect harmony with one another, the grapes progress to maturity in a manner that allows them to develop complexities that an abnormal year will not allow.  The result, juice that is tannic, structured and perfectly balanced.  With this high level of quality come prices that match the lofty expectations of the juice. 

In Bordeaux these vintages will sometimes cost double or nearly triple the price of vintages that are considered poor to average.  In other wine regions the price disparity is not nearly as large; however the perception of quality is.  Although a vintage may be seen as substandard, there are still wines of terrific quality being produced. 

If you look back at years such as ’04 and ’07 in Bordeaux, ’97 in Priorat, ’00 or ’03 for California Cabs, as well as countless other examples of so-so vintages, you will find very unique opportunities.  Instead of running for the hills or allowing your attention to be diverted elsewhere, you should do some digging.

These difficult vintages allow for winemakers to strut their stuff.  If that have stuff to strut that is! 

Average (and poor) winemakers will likely have difficult times with tricky weather, especially as it gets close to harvest.  They will likely make hasty decisions in the vineyard and winery which will negatively impact the final product.  Some examples of poor practices that may take place near harvest are not thinning grape bunches or leaf coverage appropriately, or not diligently sorting healthy grapes from poor ones prior to them being pressed.  

Conversely, talented and committed winemakers will work in conjunction with the vineyard to do whatever is needed to have a successful harvest.  It is because of their diligence that these off vintages provide many wine lovers with exquisite opportunities. 

With this in mind, I wholeheartedly encourage you to pay attention to the current release from Bordeaux (2007).  Thanks to the perception that poor vintages cannot produce very good wines and the recent attention being garnered by other vintages, there is huge opportunity to be had.  There are a lot of undervalued wines from this vintage, which will be or already are available for steep discounts.  With Smith-Haut-Lafitte selling for 1/3 the cost of ’09 and Chateau Gloria going for 1/2 the price of ‘09, as well as countless others offering huge Bordeaux bang for little buck, there are big rewards available if you are willing to do some hunting.

Thank you Mr. Economy, bloated cellars, and 2009 Bordeaux

Don’t let the title fool you.  This is not another article devoted to extolling the virtues of what will go down as one of the great Bordeaux vintages.  Rather, its focus is on the hype that the wine press has created, the attention that the ’09 futures have received around the world, and the massive opportunity that it’s presented to collectors.  Identifying what has caused the opportunity is just as important as the opportunity itself. Other investment opportunities will come along, but it’s your ability to identify what it is that causes this hype that will allows you to successfully and strategically take advantage of it in the future.

To find out the keys to taking advantage of the ebbs and flows of the economy, as well as collectors lack of foresight, you have to check this out.  Read Thank you Mr. Economy, bloated cellars, and 2009 Bordeaux to find out cues and clues to assist you in becoming a more intelligent wine consumer.

Rules of the Road for Aging Wine: An Updated Reaction

A couple days back I read an article by Paul Gregutt entitled Judging the Age-worthiness of wine is tricky business written for the Seattle Times.  The title was somewhat misleading, as I expected an explanation similar to Wine Spectator’s Matt Kramer’s recent dissertation, What Makes a Wine Age-worthy, which is an excellent piece; however somewhat long-winded and for non-Wine Geeks.  Instead, I found Gregutt’s piece, no-offense, to be somewhat of a recap of recent great wines he has enjoyed and not too much more.

Since aging wine is such a significant element of wine collecting, I am very passionate about it.  This past December I wrote an article for the Nashua Telegraph regarding this topic.  Here is an updated version of that article.  I hope you are able to learn a bit from it.

Ever since beginning my wine endeavor, I have been asked one question repeatedly: How do you know which wines to age?

To answer that, you must first ask yourself whether you prefer young wines or more mature wines. They are starkly different experiences, thus knowing your palates preference is vital as it can save you a lot of money.  If the answer is that you prefer young wines, then you do not have to age wines at all – just buy and drink. However, if you enjoy the depth, elegance and complexity that may evolve in some wines after years in the bottle, then the answer to the question gets a bit more complex.

According to Kevin Zraly, renowned author, wine educator and former cellar master at Windows on the World, there are five elements to consider before selecting a bottle for aging.  Of all of the texts I have read and conclussions I have come to personally, Zraly has it broken down perfectly:

1. Color: Due to their higher levels of tannin, red wines typically age far better than whites. However, there are some whites that have the ability to age particularly well (Champagne, Tokaji and Sauternes, to name a few). Note: Tannins are a natural preservative found in many elements of nature, including wood, nuts, tea and grapes/berries.
2. Country of origin: Certain areas of the world have optimum conditions for grape growing. Having access to the best terrior gives certain regions a distinct advantage when it comes to producing world class wine (i.e., Bordeaux, Burgundy and the Rhone in France, Tuscany in Italy, Napa in California, and Barossa in Australia, to name a few).
3. Vintage: A terrific growing season allows for the grapes to develop on the vine to a point where their components (fruit on the nose and palate, acids and tannins) have the opportunity to come into perfect balance. Adversely, a poor vintage can cause these components to become out of balance and possibly lead to a substandard wine. This is why the year on the bottle is so important.
4. Vinification: The winemaker can significantly impact a wine’s ability to age. They can achieve this through two major means: maceration, the act of keeping the juice in contact with the skins during fermentation, and oak aging, which allows the oak barrels to act as another source of natural tannins.
5. Storage: Without proper storage conditions, even the best wines will have little chance of reaching their full potential and will likely begin to digress prematurely.

It may all seem like a lot to pay attention to; however once you get the knack of it, it is quite simple to do.  However, of all of the points, it is the last that will make the difference between either successfully aging a bottle or wine or saving a bottle of plonk.

Very few wine enthusiasts will even mention this point, because it the behind-the-scenes element of aging wine.  A good bottle can always be purchased with relative ease; however that bottle can be ruined if stored improperly.  When deciding to get into wine and start acquiring a few bottles to age for special occasion or your collection, there are a few things that need to be kept in mind regarding storage. Consistent temperature exposure (I keep mine in the range of 52-54 degrees), very little exposure to light, proper humidity levels (to prevent the cork from drying out and allowing excess air to enter or juice to seep out) and exposure to very little vibration are the major considerations when selecting a place to store your wine. 

Class is dismissed for now! 

What are your thoughts on what makes a wine age-worthy or what you to ensure that your collection is being stored correctly? Do you feel as if Zraly’s five elements encompass all that is needed to ensure success?

NYC Take 2: Chelsea Wine Vault

New York City is the hub of fine wine in the U.S.  It is home to the biggest auction houses and to a majority of the significant import houses.  Because of these reasons and the fact that Manhattan is home to a boatload of disposable income, it is also home to some of the most respectable wine shops as well

Wine collectors worldwide look for relationships that will blossom and produce insight into esoteric and highly sought-after finds. For a couple years now I have been hoping to find a shop that would meet a couple specific criteria:

1. Access to the best value and most investment worthy/collectible wines possible.
2. A knowledgeable and investment-aware staff.
3. An interest in cultivating a relationship.

While in New York City this past weekend I had the opportunity to check out a few different shops that were recommended by various wine lovers.  One of these shops, Chelsea Wine Vault, stood out above others as a place that can provide staggering wines that fit my collecting style (young wines with huge aging/investment potential).

What was it about this chic wine shop that really caught my attention from a wine collecting standpoint?  Read Chelsea Wine Vault: Giving collectors what they want, written exclusively for Cork’d.

2009 Bordeaux Pricing is Set: Now What?

It is amazing what the hype-machine out of Bordeaux can achieve. The 2009 Bordeaux Futures are without a doubt, a success. The demand for this vintage has exceeded my expectations! I thought that the stagnation of our economy would put downward pressure on the futures. However, it turns out that Asia, Hong Kong to be more precise, is playing their trump card (in conjunction with strong demand from US Venture Capitalists). To this, I say “let them!”…

To find out how you can approach this in a responsible manner and capitalize on some favorable pricing, read 2009 Bordeaux Pricing is Set: Now What?

What We Can Learn from Bill Koch

When I first read Ben Wallace’s, The Billionaire’s Vinegar, I was transported to a world that seems so completely foreign and unobtainable.  It is world of playboys and tycoons with far too much money, who threw outlandish, excessively hedonistic wine weekends in which they were partaking in tastings of rare verticals and bottling of some of the greatest wines ever created.

The fact that they were purchasing bottles of rare “Jefferson” wines and pre-phylloxera Bordeaux was not far-fetched and one could hardly feel bad that they turned out to be bogus.  However, the truth of the matter is that we are just as susceptible as these characters to the plagues that haunted them.

It has been a long time since I have looked at vintage bottles of wine the same way.  To find out more about ways to protect yourself from purchasing fraudulent wine, read What We Can Learn from Bill Koch, written exclusively for Cork’d.